Songkran

Songkran, the Thai New Year, snuck up on me this year. The celebrations are impossible to miss, but I was not adequately prepared. Traditionally, Songkran is a time for visiting family, paying respects at the country's temples, and washing sacred Buddhist shrines, statues, etc. with water and a mild perfume (not unlike rose water). Pouring a small amount of water into another's hand (typically an elder's) is also a common show of respect. In recent years that tradition has evolved -- some would say devolved -- into a nationwide water fight and unofficial farewell to the dry season.

To arm myself, I stopped at one of the big supermarkets on the island on the eve of Songkran, but was not willing to spend 20+ minutes in line to buy a 60-cent squirt gun. These WalMart-like megastores always draw a big crowd on weekends and holidays, but this was a scene to rival Black Friday.

As a result, the next day I was the one-legged man at the ass-kicking party. Contest. Whatever -- the point is I got really wet with no way to fight back until I ran the five-mile gauntlet of water-throwing hordes between my place and the store.

People gather at roadsides, in front of their homes or places of business, or anywhere they can supply themselves with water, and happily douse any/all passersby. Resistance is futile. Best to stop and allow a smiling face to pour a bowl of water over your head. Besides, even the kids show remarkable aim in targeting those who try to escape. It is not uncommon to have a paste of baby powder and water applied to one's face as well, mimicking the blessings administered by Buddhist monks. The stuff is hardly noticeable at first, but when dry gives the wearer a ghost-like visage.

When I did finally make it to the store -- soaked to the skin but thirsty for payback -- I found the prices on water guns had already been slashed. This was like buying a Christmas tree on the way home from Christmas mass.

The Thai government has made moves to curb the merriment, because the concurrent spike in roadway accidents and fatalities is too shocking to ignore. In Phuket, police roadblocks and checkpoints were widespread, especially at night, to crack down on drunk driving. And if by decree or simply tradition, water fights here were limited to one day (Thursday). I seem to recall two wet days of fun last year but my Thai friends dispute this.

Nevertheless, if world peace is achievable, its commemoration would resemble Songkran. That is until someone got water in their eye. And hasty words were exchanged. And if no apologies were forthcoming, fists would fly, by God.